Blog - Behind the scenes stories of a professional photojournalist and video producer specializing in the wine, food, spirits, & adventure travel industries
As a self proclaimed adrenalin junkie, I’m constantly seeking out new adventures in far-flung places. I’ve recently helicopter – snowboarded in Canada and lept off a 440 foot bungee jump in New Zealand. I’ve also been a frequent skydiver, scuba diver, mountain biker, and rock climber, and avid trekker – for 18 months, I traveled vagabond style through the South Pacific and S.E. Asia hiking up Mt. Kinabalu in Borneo and to the base camp of Mt. Everest.
However I don’t consider myself an extreme athlete or adventurer. It’s all relative – especially compared to all the characters I’ve encountered on my journeys. For the ten years I worked at various sports companies I was continually amazed at the boundaries athletes could push and the obstacles those with limitations could overcome. As a photojournalist I’ve had the good fortune to illustrate stories by pioneers of the adventure travel industry such as Tim Cahill, founder of Outside Magazine, who has spent a lifetime forging his own path.
So how would my experiences in Puerto Rico compare? I found an ideal balance between easily accessible adventures and authentic culture. It was an easy way to dip my toes into both worlds during my whirlwind week visit.
Here’s the photo and video highlights:
Zip lining at Toro Verde
Tightrope suspension bridges and rapelling, Toro Verde
Toro Verde is a newly built ecological adventure destination with more miles of cable than any other park in the world. My highlight was “The Beast”, where I flew like a bird superman style on the world’s highest zip line (853 feet above the rainforest floor), for nearly a mile long (2nd longest in world at 4745 feet), and reached speeds of 55mph. This was best captured on video, and provided it’s own challenge wearing three video cameras. http://www.toroverdepr.com/index_eng.html
Kayaking by starlight through mangrove coves to Bioluminescent Fajardo Bio Bay
Only eight bioluminescent bays exist in the world and experiencing the unique spectacle of dinoflagellates that light up like fireflies in the water is only part of the adventure. Kayaking through a canal of mangroves into bio bay by starlight is the best low impact approach. While I wasn’t able to capture a clear photo of the blue-green light produced by these organisms as my kayak moved through the bay, their glimmer was visible on video with my new Nikon D4, a true test of low light capability. http://www.yokahukayaks.com/
Pristine waters of Caja de Muerto island are ideal for swimming & snorkeling
Acampa Nature adventures offers private and group hiking and kayaking excursions to Caja de Merto, an island which is a combination of semi-arid dessert vegetation, white sand beaches, and limestone caves. We hiked through a a trail of green cactus forest to the highest point on the island, a 1887 Spanish lighthouse with expensive panoramic view of Puerto Rico, as the guides provided detail about the local flora and fauna. http://www.acampapr.com/
Kayaking the pristine island of Caja de Muerto nature reserve with Acampa Nature Adventure Tours owner Raymond Sepulveda
Pod of dolphins surrounds my kayak
After 10 years of exploring tropical waters by kayak, scuba diving, and snorkeling, I was finally able to experience a pod a dolphins close up when they approached our kayak within arms reach to peacefully feed at the surface. The island is abundant with marine life and coral reefs.
Mojito beachside at Hosteria del Mar Beach Inn & Verdanza Hotel sommelier mixing a cocktail at Di Vino bar
Rum punch at Eighty 20 Bistro, Verdanza Hotel, San Juan
Nightlife in old town San Juan is always vibrant, ranging from romantic sunsets and dinners to Latino salsa clubs
Colorful colonial architecture in old town San Juan
Artistically minded guests relax in courtyard of The Gallery Inn, a 300 year old historic home perched next to the Old City's North Wall, which was restored by artists / owners Jan D'Esopo and Manuco Gandia in1961 and converted to a 22 room boutique hotel, San Juan
Old San Juan view of of the lighthouse at El Morro Castle (aka Castillo de San Felipe del Morro'), overlooking Cementerio Santa Maria Magdalena de Passiz, old town San Juan, Puerto Rico
Saint Christopher Castle (Castillo de San Cristabal), the largest military structure built by the Spanish in the Americas, Old Town San Juan,
Here’s a link to my stock photography of Puerto Rico -
18 months ago Fred Noble was diagnosed with ALS. Though he’s lost the ability to move his legs, he was determined to celebrate his 75th birthday much as he has for the past 38 years – heli-skiing with Canadian Mountain Holidays. Last week he made the first ever descent on a sit-ski at the Bugaboos. Stay posted for his story about this sit-ski adventure soon, here’s a teaser from the documentary film we’re helping him create.
View towards Bugaboos Spire, glacier to the right of tooth-shaped rock was Fred's first descent on a sit ski
Snow continued to dump mid week for epic powder skiing/ boarding, but unfortunately was warm and heavy day of Fred's sit ski adventure
David & Gary secure Fred to sit ski and start go pro cams to capture the adventure
So, here’s how the first descent on a sit ski heliskiing at CMH unfolded . . .
Kudos to guides Peter and Andrew for enabling Fred's first descent, albeit the unexpected results
Fred did manage a few additional fun sit ski runs, photo copyright Bob Holmes
Fred's 75th Birthday celebration in Bugaboos style!
Fred always manages to be the center of the party, last evening of a Bugaboos trip is always wild!
Fred will be adding his own personal story about the descent soon, check out his blog for more stories of inspiration
I’ve dreamt of the complete freedom and incomparable adrenalin rush of helicopter skiing & snowboarding for the past twenty years. My expectations were high, yet these visions were exceeded by my Canadian Mountain Holidays experience in the most surprising ways.
Bugaboos Lodge overlooking Bugaboo Range and Spires, British Columbia, Canada
I learned to ski at the age of 9 from my grandfather, Andy Hennig, who was an Austrian Ski instructor at Sun Valley, Idaho until the age of 77. He was a legend in his own right teaching the Hemingway family and countless celebrities while working with Warren Miller in the early days of the adventure ski films. This lifestyle made an unforgettable impression, and in my mid 20’s I took a job at a snowboard company, hired photographers for marketing campaigns, and watched endless ski and snowboard films to fuel the fire.
Clear days offer unlimited access to tracks high alpine glaciers
Fast forward 15 years and my dream had nearly slipped away. I used the same excuses of lacking time, money, and fitness that most of us justify in delaying such adventures. Additionally last summer I lost my snowboarding partner of 15 years, Dale Johnson, who died in a tragic accident before he had the chance to heli snowboard – #1 on his bucket list. As life teaches us through unexpected circumstances, I found my dream reignited through the inspiration of Fred Noble.
Bell Long ranger helicopter transported our group of 12 to ski/board an average of 20,000 vertical feet a day
Fred has heli-skied over 7 million vertical feet with CMH as their North American Agent, choosing to use his commissions in trade for heli-ski time during the past 38 years. This trip was his most challenging yet – 18 months ago Fred was diagnosed with ALS and he has lost all mobility in his legs. He was determined to celebrate his 75th birthday at the Bugaboos with the first descent on a sit ski, and I was there to help capture the event for a documentary film on his life (see next blog entry for this story). The experience was bittersweet, his unquenchable spirit contagious, and by watching Fred overcome obstacles of this magnitude I realized my excuses were miniscule in comparison.
First light on Bugaboo Spires
In reality all of my concerns vanished the minute the helicopter dropped us off besides the magnificent bugaboo spires. CMH invented heli-skiing at the Bugaboos over 45 years ago and they’ve perfected the experience. The first day our group of 10 women, one man, and two guides had countless fresh tracks on a perfect bluebird day offering unlimited access to the high alpine glaciers.
Fresh tracks on a perfect bluebird day
I was surprised how effortless, fun, and relatively easy the first few runs were vs resort skiing or snowboarding. There’s really no comparison – we had endless clean lines to ride, the perfect constant pitch, virgin 6-12 inches of packed powder, and expert guides to lead the way and follow behind to ensure our safety. I’m accustomed to the mantra, “there’s no friends on powder days”, when everyone races down the first few lifts before the masses shred up the runs or discover the secret powder stash. At CMH, the only inexhaustible resource was our legs though we were replenished each helicopter ride with energy drinks and freshly baked treats.
Limitless fresh tracks in the high alpine
On the second afternoon when many guests opted for a rest I had the chance to join a group of guides, staff, and several skiers with over a million vertical feet at CMH. At first I was intimidated, but soon found that my level of riding rose to the occasion. Cannon Barrel run was in perfect condition to rip with unrestrained speed: In a few minutes our group traveled over 2,800 vertical feet, stopping only once for a brief rest. I can still hear the hoots and hollers of my fellow skiers, telemarkers, and riders – we made three epic runs that are seared in my mind as my most unforgettable riding experience.
Epic day & great group
My fellow skiers were fun and relaxed, and our camaraderie was always high. Though we had both expert and virgin heli-skiers, we were a very compatible and tight knit group. I enjoyed not having to fight for my turn to go first and the shouts of encouragement as everyone continued to gain confidence and improve. As a tomboy, I’ve been accustomed to fighting alpha males for position in adventure sports. I had honestly never considered the fact that I could have more fun joining a group of women who would push my limits – but in a joyful, non-competitive way.
Camaraderie kept our group energized
Mid week a series of storms dumped 1-2 feet of fresh snow each day. These conditions were ideal for extensive tree runs with the lightest deepest powder I’ve ever encountered. One morning I rode with the chef, another snowboarder, enjoying the long easy lines through the trees. Each of us paired up with a buddy and made our own unique call to each other as we traveled; I can still hear the yodel of Seth, our Austrian guide, echoing through the forest..
Springtime conditions offer best of both worlds, mid week storm brought 3 feet of fresh powder
Snow, snow, and more snow!
Everything at CMH is world class, and after a long day on the mountain nothing beats a soak in the hot tub. This was my daily ritual, and on the days when my body gave out I indulged in a 45-minute deep tissue massage expertly applied to the areas most in need of recovery.
Perfect way to unwind after a long day in the mountains
It’s tradition on the last evening of the week to dress up in costume, share stories and skits from the most entertaining parts of the trip, and join a dance party after dinner. For details you’ll have to wait until I post the video, or for a teaser go to my blog post on Fred’s 75th birthday. My only regret from my experience was not conditioning better in advance – next time I’ll be prepared for the endless activity!
Tequila shots, Bugaboos style
This trip broke nearly every stereotype and concern I had of heli-skiing. Groups ranged in age from 30 to 75 years old, from expert to first time heli-skiers of varying fitness levels and expertise. Over half our group were women, and though I was the lone snowboarder for most runs the guides were experienced to lead boarders to alternative routes to avoid flats or let the group break the trail when traverses were unavoidable. The one thing we all shared was an unquenchable thirst for skiing or snowboarding; sharing the week with like-minded, passionate adventurers is an incredible experience I’m now addicted to relive as often as possible.
Bittersweet departure . . . leaving another several feet of fresh snow
One last view leaving overlooking Bugaboos, already dreaming of the next visit . . .
Looking for an adrenalin rush? Check out our video of CMH’s newest summer adventure, dramatic scenery where the Bobbie Burns guides have developed a new Conrad Glacier Experience for 2012 with bridges, ziplines and waterfalls.
CMH used the our video to launch ‘The Wildest New Adventure in North America”.
Brett Lawrence setting the course for the new Conrad Glacier experience, Bobbie Burns lodge
Brett Lawrence zip lining across glacial river, working with Bruce Howatt to create the newest Conrad Glacier Experience
The CMH blog written by Topher Donahue also interviews Bruce Howatt, the manager of CMH Bobbie Burns – here’s an excerpt from his post: “You’re right. It isn’t a via ferrata nor is it anywhere close to a traditional hike. The trip is hiking, navigating wild canyons using bridges and rungs, ascending colourful rock slabs right next to waterfalls, zipline crossings, traversing rock walls next to a glacier and, coming soon, more climbing, waterfalls and hopefully some crevasse crossings. All this is mixed into some of the most scenic, mind-blowing, wild mountain hiking you can imagine. Blue glaciers, dark orange rock and bright green ponds are everywhere.”
An exhilarating excursion to the summit of Mt. Nimbus along North America\’s longest and most extensive via ferrata route. Deep in the Purcell mountains, the Bobbie Burns mountain guides designed and created a Via Ferrata (Italian for \”Iron Way\”)
We also enjoyed more ‘traditional’ heli-hiking excursions from the Bobbie Burns and Bugaboos base lodges, though the experiences were far from any other hiking experience I’ve encountered in the world.
Heli - Hiking the spectacular Anthea’s - A half-day, resoundingly alpine hike along a goat trail up to a high ridge, with great views of the Conrad Glacier, looking down at towering ice needles and into looming crevasses, Bobbie Burns Lodge.
Access to spectacular varied scenery was endless with the helicopter dropping us off where the best weather and conditions prevailed. I spent a month ‘roughing it’ hiking to Everest Base camp, and while the Himalayan views certainly rivaled Canada I’ve never expeienced adventures based from refined, remote mountain lodges with a highly-trained pastry & head chef cooking with health, flavour, and presentation in mind, using the finest fresh Western Canadian ingredients!
Heli - Hiking the spectacular Ridge Rooftop, a rocky, above-timberline hike. and one of the best places to get a 360 degree view of the southern Columbias , Bugaboo Spires, and the Canadian Rockies, Bugaboos Lodge.
Enjoying my view from the top of Ridge Rooftop hike, Bugaboos Lodge
View of Bugaboos spires from Bugaboos Lodge
Here’s a few last vantage points, I’ve created 360 degree virtual reality tours of two locations, click here to view (you’ll need a fast internet connection to view the detailed hd panos)
For 30+ years CMH has been guiding guests on extraordinary lodge-based journeys in BC’s Canadian Rockies. Here’s a link to their website and blog with more details about these adventures:
Winter in Colorado is magical. The town of Breckenridge, with it’s charm, friendly locals, and walking access to the mountain brings back nostalgic memories of family vacations with my grandfather who was a ski instructor in Sun Valley, Idaho. In my mid twenties I worked in the snowboard industry and traveled frequently to Whistler, Utah, Jackson Hole, Lake Tahoe, and Mammoth Mountain in addition to local haunts at Mt. Hood & Mt. Bachelor. After a ten-year hiatus from snowsports while focusing in the food, wine, & spirits industry I’m now drawn back to the outdoors in a quest to balance these passions.
I arrived in Denver on Feb 1st, which happened to be the coldest day on record for that date (the high was 1 degree below zero Fahrenheit with a low of minus 17). Luckily the Hotel Teatro, a historic boutique hotel in the heart of downtown theatre district, is just blocks away from breweries, distilleries, restaurants, and bars with a free driver service anywhere downtown: http://www.vistatvdenver.com/detail/hotel-teatro.
Downtown Denver in winter
Enjoying samples of microbrews at Wynkoop Brewing Companny, Denver, Colorado
Brewing on premise at Wynkoop Brewing Companny, Denver, Colorado
Denver is more than a gateway town to the mountains; it was the perfect way to warm up with tours to breweries, distilleries, and restaurants focusing on local & artisinal crafts. I’m spoiled with a plethora of these options in my hometown of Portland, but I’ve found a few new favorites to add to my list.
Wynkoop Brewing Company http://www.wynkoop.com/, Colorado’s first brewpub, was founded in 1988 by the current Denver Mayor John Hickenlooper. The brewery, pub, lounge, and restaurant are inside the beautifully restored 1899 J. S. Brown Mercantile Building. Each Friday brewmasters tap an old-school, UK-style, 10-gallon keg of cask-conditioned beer, a process which brings out the subtle aromas of the beer. For these “Firken Friday single night only kegs”, brewmasters combine a beer that has already finished fermenting with a second beer that just started fermenting a day ago, bung it off and the natural co2 from the yeast carbonates the new keg. They begun experimenting with the new craft movement of trying different spices, hops, and fruits to see what balances well long before its recent popularity. Their latest experiment combines Milk stout, Oregon raspberries, and roasted coco nibs – three of my favorite ingredients.
Mark DeNittis, owner of Il Mondo Vecchio Salumi
The Il Mondo Vecchi salumi http://mondovecchio.net/default.aspx is also a wonderful find, recommended by the distiller at Stranahan’s Colorado Whiskey. It’s not a retail store so call ahead, but it’s worth the stop to find true regional artisanal cured meats. He chooses to add no cultures or fermentation enhancers, but instead relies solely on age old practice and four core elements: Meat, Sea Salt, Ingredients (wine, spice, herbs), & Time.
Stranahans Whiskey & head distiller Jake Norris
Colorado Sidecar, my favorite happy hour deal Blue River Bistro
Stranahan’s whiskey http://stranahans.com/ was the most surprising gem I discovered. Portland is home to a group of talelnted craft distillers, so I wasn’t expecting to be blown away by such exceptional quality. Head distiller Jake Norris gave the tour; I was intrigued to find out they only distill six barrels a week and release extremely limited edition one-off bottlings aptly named Snowflakes. I enjoyed two samples of different snowflake series straight, each had very distinct bouquets and subtle nuances of flavor I don’t often encounter in more oaked styles. Stranahans was named Artisan Whiskey Of The Year by Malt Advocate 2010, Best small batch Distillery Whisky of the year in the book “2009 Whisky Bible”, and Best of Show – American Distilling Institute Louisville KY 2008.
After a few days of feasting and drinking I was ready to withstand the cold and get exercise. This season I’ve been enjoying the Vail Associates resorts included in their seasonal epic pass: it’s a great deal including unlimited access to Vail, Beaver Creek, Breckenridge, Keystone, Heavenly (Lake Tahoe), Arapahoe Basin, and Northstar-at-Tahoe.
"The Burn" black diamond tree run, Breckenridge, Colorado
I wish I was in good enough shape to shred fresh powder in the backcountry all day, the weather had cooperated, and I had the extra $225 for the private snow cat access only terrain in the upper bowls. Full day tours of the bowls above the lifts and tree line look epic. The package includes a guide & catered lunch in their warming hut; definitely something I will look forward to on a future visit. However, for just $5 the outback shuttle will transport you to additional terrain you’d have to hike in most locations. Keystone includes an immense but easily accessible series runs between three mountains with 3,148 ski/boardable acres, 20 lifts, 2 gondolas, 3 mountains, and two villages. It’s a great place for groups of skiers and boarders of differing abilities, and although I usually avoid the main runs at resorts I must admit their grooming was exceptional.
The last day in Colorado my patience was rewarded with a foot of champagne like fresh powder that only the rocky mountain states can provide. Luckily I’d had a chance to quickly orient myself between the four mountains at Breckenridge resort with the assistance from a guide, whose tips proved invaluable for maximizing untracked runs the next day. On the powder day I stayed on Peak 10 since the crowds head to the gondolas on peak 9 or 8, and the top of peak 8 and 7 are more likely to have low visibility. There’s nothing like being the first on the mountain to enjoy floating on untracked terrain, which I managed for the first six runs up the Falcon Super Chair. It’s nearly impossible to get face shots of fresh powder with less than a foot of fresh snow on the west coast. When my legs began to quiver I used the daily updated terrain map to find black diamond runs that had been groomed immediately before the snow for steep and deep, yet smooth access. The plethora of happy hour bars and steam room / hot tub combo were the perfect finish to the day. Colorado certainly delivers on its promise of unbeatable resorts.
After a long day on the mountain luckily there’s a great selection of restaurants and bars within walking distance from the condos at the Village at Breckenridge resort and a quick shuttle at Keystone. A few favorite spots were the Ski Tip Lodge, which was built as a stagecoach stop in the 1880s and then was refurbished in 1940 into Colorado’s first ski lodge. The food and wine list are exceptional and comfy couches surrounding a roaring fireplace are the ideal way to relax with friends for desserts and drinks. Breckenridge brewpub is a very different, lively atmosphere with a good selection of beers on tap. Just watch out – the alcohol will quickly take effect at 9,600 feet, so pacing is essential!
