Blog - Behind the scenes stories of a professional photojournalist and video producer specializing in the wine, food, spirits, & adventure travel industries
As a self proclaimed adrenalin junkie, I’m constantly seeking out new adventures in far-flung places. I’ve recently helicopter – snowboarded in Canada and lept off a 440 foot bungee jump in New Zealand. I’ve also been a frequent skydiver, scuba diver, mountain biker, and rock climber, and avid trekker – for 18 months, I traveled vagabond style through the South Pacific and S.E. Asia hiking up Mt. Kinabalu in Borneo and to the base camp of Mt. Everest.
However I don’t consider myself an extreme athlete or adventurer. It’s all relative – especially compared to all the characters I’ve encountered on my journeys. For the ten years I worked at various sports companies I was continually amazed at the boundaries athletes could push and the obstacles those with limitations could overcome. As a photojournalist I’ve had the good fortune to illustrate stories by pioneers of the adventure travel industry such as Tim Cahill, founder of Outside Magazine, who has spent a lifetime forging his own path.
So how would my experiences in Puerto Rico compare? I found an ideal balance between easily accessible adventures and authentic culture. It was an easy way to dip my toes into both worlds during my whirlwind week visit.
Here’s the photo and video highlights:
Zip lining at Toro Verde
Tightrope suspension bridges and rapelling, Toro Verde
Toro Verde is a newly built ecological adventure destination with more miles of cable than any other park in the world. My highlight was “The Beast”, where I flew like a bird superman style on the world’s highest zip line (853 feet above the rainforest floor), for nearly a mile long (2nd longest in world at 4745 feet), and reached speeds of 55mph. This was best captured on video, and provided it’s own challenge wearing three video cameras. http://www.toroverdepr.com/index_eng.html
Kayaking by starlight through mangrove coves to Bioluminescent Fajardo Bio Bay
Only eight bioluminescent bays exist in the world and experiencing the unique spectacle of dinoflagellates that light up like fireflies in the water is only part of the adventure. Kayaking through a canal of mangroves into bio bay by starlight is the best low impact approach. While I wasn’t able to capture a clear photo of the blue-green light produced by these organisms as my kayak moved through the bay, their glimmer was visible on video with my new Nikon D4, a true test of low light capability. http://www.yokahukayaks.com/
Pristine waters of Caja de Muerto island are ideal for swimming & snorkeling
Acampa Nature adventures offers private and group hiking and kayaking excursions to Caja de Merto, an island which is a combination of semi-arid dessert vegetation, white sand beaches, and limestone caves. We hiked through a a trail of green cactus forest to the highest point on the island, a 1887 Spanish lighthouse with expensive panoramic view of Puerto Rico, as the guides provided detail about the local flora and fauna. http://www.acampapr.com/
Kayaking the pristine island of Caja de Muerto nature reserve with Acampa Nature Adventure Tours owner Raymond Sepulveda
Pod of dolphins surrounds my kayak
After 10 years of exploring tropical waters by kayak, scuba diving, and snorkeling, I was finally able to experience a pod a dolphins close up when they approached our kayak within arms reach to peacefully feed at the surface. The island is abundant with marine life and coral reefs.
Mojito beachside at Hosteria del Mar Beach Inn & Verdanza Hotel sommelier mixing a cocktail at Di Vino bar
Rum punch at Eighty 20 Bistro, Verdanza Hotel, San Juan
Nightlife in old town San Juan is always vibrant, ranging from romantic sunsets and dinners to Latino salsa clubs
Colorful colonial architecture in old town San Juan
Artistically minded guests relax in courtyard of The Gallery Inn, a 300 year old historic home perched next to the Old City's North Wall, which was restored by artists / owners Jan D'Esopo and Manuco Gandia in1961 and converted to a 22 room boutique hotel, San Juan
Old San Juan view of of the lighthouse at El Morro Castle (aka Castillo de San Felipe del Morro'), overlooking Cementerio Santa Maria Magdalena de Passiz, old town San Juan, Puerto Rico
Saint Christopher Castle (Castillo de San Cristabal), the largest military structure built by the Spanish in the Americas, Old Town San Juan,
Here’s a link to my stock photography of Puerto Rico -
18 months ago Fred Noble was diagnosed with ALS. Though he’s lost the ability to move his legs, he was determined to celebrate his 75th birthday much as he has for the past 38 years – heli-skiing with Canadian Mountain Holidays. Last week he made the first ever descent on a sit-ski at the Bugaboos. Stay posted for his story about this sit-ski adventure soon, here’s a teaser from the documentary film we’re helping him create.
View towards Bugaboos Spire, glacier to the right of tooth-shaped rock was Fred's first descent on a sit ski
Snow continued to dump mid week for epic powder skiing/ boarding, but unfortunately was warm and heavy day of Fred's sit ski adventure
David & Gary secure Fred to sit ski and start go pro cams to capture the adventure
So, here’s how the first descent on a sit ski heliskiing at CMH unfolded . . .
Kudos to guides Peter and Andrew for enabling Fred's first descent, albeit the unexpected results
Fred did manage a few additional fun sit ski runs, photo copyright Bob Holmes
Fred's 75th Birthday celebration in Bugaboos style!
Fred always manages to be the center of the party, last evening of a Bugaboos trip is always wild!
Fred will be adding his own personal story about the descent soon, check out his blog for more stories of inspiration
I’ve dreamt of the complete freedom and incomparable adrenalin rush of helicopter skiing & snowboarding for the past twenty years. My expectations were high, yet these visions were exceeded by my Canadian Mountain Holidays experience in the most surprising ways.
Bugaboos Lodge overlooking Bugaboo Range and Spires, British Columbia, Canada
I learned to ski at the age of 9 from my grandfather, Andy Hennig, who was an Austrian Ski instructor at Sun Valley, Idaho until the age of 77. He was a legend in his own right teaching the Hemingway family and countless celebrities while working with Warren Miller in the early days of the adventure ski films. This lifestyle made an unforgettable impression, and in my mid 20’s I took a job at a snowboard company, hired photographers for marketing campaigns, and watched endless ski and snowboard films to fuel the fire.
Clear days offer unlimited access to tracks high alpine glaciers
Fast forward 15 years and my dream had nearly slipped away. I used the same excuses of lacking time, money, and fitness that most of us justify in delaying such adventures. Additionally last summer I lost my snowboarding partner of 15 years, Dale Johnson, who died in a tragic accident before he had the chance to heli snowboard – #1 on his bucket list. As life teaches us through unexpected circumstances, I found my dream reignited through the inspiration of Fred Noble.
Bell Long ranger helicopter transported our group of 12 to ski/board an average of 20,000 vertical feet a day
Fred has heli-skied over 7 million vertical feet with CMH as their North American Agent, choosing to use his commissions in trade for heli-ski time during the past 38 years. This trip was his most challenging yet – 18 months ago Fred was diagnosed with ALS and he has lost all mobility in his legs. He was determined to celebrate his 75th birthday at the Bugaboos with the first descent on a sit ski, and I was there to help capture the event for a documentary film on his life (see next blog entry for this story). The experience was bittersweet, his unquenchable spirit contagious, and by watching Fred overcome obstacles of this magnitude I realized my excuses were miniscule in comparison.
First light on Bugaboo Spires
In reality all of my concerns vanished the minute the helicopter dropped us off besides the magnificent bugaboo spires. CMH invented heli-skiing at the Bugaboos over 45 years ago and they’ve perfected the experience. The first day our group of 10 women, one man, and two guides had countless fresh tracks on a perfect bluebird day offering unlimited access to the high alpine glaciers.
Fresh tracks on a perfect bluebird day
I was surprised how effortless, fun, and relatively easy the first few runs were vs resort skiing or snowboarding. There’s really no comparison – we had endless clean lines to ride, the perfect constant pitch, virgin 6-12 inches of packed powder, and expert guides to lead the way and follow behind to ensure our safety. I’m accustomed to the mantra, “there’s no friends on powder days”, when everyone races down the first few lifts before the masses shred up the runs or discover the secret powder stash. At CMH, the only inexhaustible resource was our legs though we were replenished each helicopter ride with energy drinks and freshly baked treats.
Limitless fresh tracks in the high alpine
On the second afternoon when many guests opted for a rest I had the chance to join a group of guides, staff, and several skiers with over a million vertical feet at CMH. At first I was intimidated, but soon found that my level of riding rose to the occasion. Cannon Barrel run was in perfect condition to rip with unrestrained speed: In a few minutes our group traveled over 2,800 vertical feet, stopping only once for a brief rest. I can still hear the hoots and hollers of my fellow skiers, telemarkers, and riders – we made three epic runs that are seared in my mind as my most unforgettable riding experience.
Epic day & great group
My fellow skiers were fun and relaxed, and our camaraderie was always high. Though we had both expert and virgin heli-skiers, we were a very compatible and tight knit group. I enjoyed not having to fight for my turn to go first and the shouts of encouragement as everyone continued to gain confidence and improve. As a tomboy, I’ve been accustomed to fighting alpha males for position in adventure sports. I had honestly never considered the fact that I could have more fun joining a group of women who would push my limits – but in a joyful, non-competitive way.
Camaraderie kept our group energized
Mid week a series of storms dumped 1-2 feet of fresh snow each day. These conditions were ideal for extensive tree runs with the lightest deepest powder I’ve ever encountered. One morning I rode with the chef, another snowboarder, enjoying the long easy lines through the trees. Each of us paired up with a buddy and made our own unique call to each other as we traveled; I can still hear the yodel of Seth, our Austrian guide, echoing through the forest..
Springtime conditions offer best of both worlds, mid week storm brought 3 feet of fresh powder
Snow, snow, and more snow!
Everything at CMH is world class, and after a long day on the mountain nothing beats a soak in the hot tub. This was my daily ritual, and on the days when my body gave out I indulged in a 45-minute deep tissue massage expertly applied to the areas most in need of recovery.
Perfect way to unwind after a long day in the mountains
It’s tradition on the last evening of the week to dress up in costume, share stories and skits from the most entertaining parts of the trip, and join a dance party after dinner. For details you’ll have to wait until I post the video, or for a teaser go to my blog post on Fred’s 75th birthday. My only regret from my experience was not conditioning better in advance – next time I’ll be prepared for the endless activity!
Tequila shots, Bugaboos style
This trip broke nearly every stereotype and concern I had of heli-skiing. Groups ranged in age from 30 to 75 years old, from expert to first time heli-skiers of varying fitness levels and expertise. Over half our group were women, and though I was the lone snowboarder for most runs the guides were experienced to lead boarders to alternative routes to avoid flats or let the group break the trail when traverses were unavoidable. The one thing we all shared was an unquenchable thirst for skiing or snowboarding; sharing the week with like-minded, passionate adventurers is an incredible experience I’m now addicted to relive as often as possible.
Bittersweet departure . . . leaving another several feet of fresh snow
One last view leaving overlooking Bugaboos, already dreaming of the next visit . . .
Petra, one of the seven wonders of the world, has a mystique that lingers in our imaginations and does not disappoint in person.
Even the entrance to the fabled ‘rose red city’ is dramatic, a winding sandstone canyon known as the Siq, which opens up to this view of the treasury. Western visitors will recognize this building from the closing scenes of Steven Spielberg movie, Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.
Although now this World Heritage Site is filled with the clattering of horse drawn carriages and awe-inspired tourists, it is still impressively preserved.
Over 900 steps lead to this view of the Monastery, the largest carved monument in Petra, dating back to the 1st century AD. This ancient city was built over 2,000 years ago by the Nabateans but is known to be inhabited from as early as 7,000 B.C. The Nabateans were a nomadic Arab people from Arabia renowned for their refined culture & massive architecture. By the end of the 2nd century B.C. Petra had become a huge city which thrived until the 2nd century A.D. when the Romans diverted the lucrative silk, incense & spice trade route linking China, India, and southern Arabia with Egypt, Syria, Greece & Rome. By the 14th century Petra was completely lost to the west and was fiercly guarded by the local Bedoiins for nearly 300 years until a Swiss traveler disguised himself as an Arab anad rediscovered the ‘lost city’ in 1812.
Beautifully carved and colorful sandstone caves are remarkably preserved, and found by a little exploring off the beaten path. I only had two days to explore, just scratched the surface.
Visitors to Petra average 40,000 people a month, but during the winter months and a rainy day I was able to find moments of tranquility and solitude. One of the most amazing aspects of my experience was the gracious hospitality of the local Jordanians. I have never encountered such a welcome in any other comparatively touristed area in Eqypt, Greece, Rome, or the many other monuments of the world I’ve visited. Their hospitality is woven into their culture, and their respect for visitors and genuine smiles will continue to linger in my memories until I return.
It’s been a whirlwind summer traveling throughout the state of Washington for a new wine book titled “Spectacular Wineries of Washington” due out next Spring. I’ve been fortunate to work in more depth with a few new clients pictured below:
Va Piano Vineyards, Walla Walla, Washington
My home base in Walla Walla for several trips the past few months – a private guest room on the top floor of Va Piano’s beautiful winery and estate vineyards in Walla Walla.
Winemaker Marcus Notaro, Cole Solare Winery, Red Mountain, Washington
Cole Solare, Red Mountain AVA, eastern Washington
Col Solare, a collaboration between Chateau Ste. Michelle and Italy’s famed winemaker, Marchese Piero Antinori, has one of the most distinctive winery buildings I’ve photographed. Looking forward to capturing their harvest in this spectacular space.
Chris & Gary Figgins, Leonetti Cellars & Figgins Family Estates, Walla Walla
Figgins Family Wine Estates, Walla Walla, Washington
I’ve photographed the Figgins Family on multiple occasions, and am looking forward to shadowing the team during harvest.
Paul Golitzin, Quilceda Creek, Washington
Quilceda Creek has a brand new winery building, and I look forward to capturing their first harvest in their elegant new facility.
Jarrod Boyle at Alexandria Nicole Cellar's spectacular Destiny Ridge Vineyards, Horse Heaven Hills, Washington
My favorite yoga pose - Thanks Jarrod for the great photo in your Destiny Ridge vineyard!
It’s tough to find time to balance in the flury of activities immediately before and during harvest – thanks to all the winemakers who have taken a break to join me in a few yoga poses in the vineyard and for making the the journey so enjoyable!
